Still Here

Funny how things go in waves. The longer you don't do something the harder it is to get back to it. This is an excellent example.

I am going to head back to the East Coast for July 4 this year, just a few weeks away. Some highlights of the planned trip:

After flying into JFK on JetBlue from Oakland, I will take the bus into Grand Central. And from there, as everybody knows, you go directly to the Oyster Bar. I go into the saloon area and head for the long bar. I always prefer to sit to right hand side, but there's usually not a seat there. The reason? The bartender on the left, who has been there forever, is a bit gruff, though efficient and professional. Maybe it's a good introduction to being back in New York. He won't say anything to you that he doesn't have to say. He's all business. Is he nasty? No. Is he warm? No. But I usually have more fun sitting to the right where there is a more chatty bartender. 

But it's about the food and drink. Depending on what's so going on, I may order a martini or a beer. There's also great white wines by the glass which can be great accompaniments to the oysters. Oh the oysters. I would be lying if I could say that I have certain favorites and that I look at the menu and seek those out. I just try about 3 or 4 different kinds and they are pretty much all good. Well I do have a strategy to pick oysters from areas with particularly cold waters because I feel that this is what is lacking here on the West Coast. But I can't say that this is the real difference. Very fresh oysters served raw and cold in this temple to seafood. This may be one of my top ten dining experiences.

It's also very exciting to head up to Cornwall knowing that, since this is July 4, mom and dad will have ordered lobsters from the Lion's Club and we will eat them with cole slaw, maybe corn on the cob, possibly some famously inferior french fries and either good cold white wine, or more likely, a couple Budweisers, also known as the official beer of July Fourth weekend. Thank you Johnny. 

I need to place a call to Mr. V to see if he indeed will be hosting his traditional parade viewing station in his front yard. I sure hope so. More to come.

Missing East Coast Summers?

So the Fourth of July just passed and me without my annual lobster fix and no relief in sight. A hardcore foodie I know who just returned from New Hampshire where he got more than his share of lobster would say, "you live in the Bay Area, eat what's local." Of course he's right. At the same time, if we all followed this advice we would never be able to have truffles or Italian prosciutto or any of the world's bounty that greets us at the best markets. A conundrum worth pondering over a cold drink this afternoon.

Speaking of cold drinks, or really of hot weather, I was recently hit with pangs of nostalgia for the "Lazy hazy days of summer" that I grew up with in the Hudson Valley and in Manhattan. I remember the sounds of the crickets at night and the fireflies and the cool air that followed a whoever thunderstorm. I was just thinking of how nice it was when it was really hot and everything kind of slowed down and you just paced yourself. Well what I failed to recall were the days wearing a wool suit on the subway which was so blazing hot that it's a wonder more people don't faint. And the nights when you were just damp in bed in your own sweat (we rarely used air conditioning). We hated the heat. Why would I miss it?

Luckily I came to my senses and have been enjoying these Bay Area warm summer days and nice cool nights. Good sleeping weather. Who needs air conditioning?

Bobby Short, the Prince of the Cafe Carlyle

Goodnight to Bobby Short

Last week we lost cabaret singer, bon vivant and all-around class act Bobby Short. He was synonymous with the Cafe Carlyle, a very "la-dee-da" cabaret room in New York's Carlyle Hotel. I actually didn't know that the Cafe was in a hotel for the longest time. The Carlyle Hotel is super nice and I doubt I would ever find myself in one of its rooms. Tres Swank.

But I was lucky enough to see Bobby Short perform in that club not once but twice, the second time with my now-wife. I wonder what she thought when I brought her there and just gushed about how cool it was going to be. The reason why it's odd is that the Cafe Carlyle, partly because of its Upper-East Side address and also because of it's high price tag, has the reputation (deservedly, I guess) of being a very white-bread, borderline stuffy sort of old money hangout. The thing is that Bobby Short had soul. He really did. I mean the soul that comes from Cole Porter and George Gershwin tunes being played and sung with gusto. And when they were slower, well they were really romantic. At least to me.

We were also lucky enough to see him out here on the West Coast at Yoshi's in Jack London Square. My lovely wife surprised me with tickets, one of the better surprises of all time, quite honestly. It wasn't even full, but that was great because we sat right up close. He was in his late seventies then and his voice was strained, but what a great performer. I guess he and Mick Jagger drink from the same fountain.

Anyway, I will always remember Bobby Short as my idea of the elegance of New York. Elegance in a Woody Allen's Manhattan, dry martini, wearing shoes with a great shine, really big flower arrangements, play now-pay later kind of way.

New York has lost a piece of her mosaic and there is nobody who can fill that void.

Sicilian Slices Found in the East Bay

I've never really looked, but I don't think I recall seeing Sicilian (or Siggy, as they used to say at Prima's) pizza slices anywhere in the Bay Area. These were all but ubiquitous in my area of upstate New York. I remember that when you had a couple of extra quarters, you could upgrade from a regular slice to Sicilian and get way more food. This was only if you couldn't afford two slices.

Today we finally went to Arinell's in Berkeley. The goal was to stop there, have a slice, then proceed to Gioia for a mini taste test. While Aileen got a "regular" slice with pepperoni and mushrooms, I was tempted by a Sicilian slice. I annoyed the tattooed pizza chef by asking for a middle slice. Cmon, man. Don't you want me to care what I eat?

The siggi slice was right on. A thick shelf of cheese across the top and a dry-ish fat, white bread almost crouton of a crust, moistened with olive oil. It's a poor man's focaccia. The crust tasted bland, which was OK. It was the right texture and the cheese was just thick enough. Tomato sauce was fine. All was helped by a shake of parm cheese and oregano. All in all, a very nice surprise. I wonder who buys it and why they started serving it.

Aileen's slice looked good. Properly muddled orange and red cheese/sauce mixture. Very promising. But the crust, while thin and crisp, was just boring and kind of cardboardy. It's as if they forgot an ingrediant (salt?) It was better than most, but we were on our way to Gioia so the bar was raised pretty high.

At Gioia, Aileen opted for a mushroom slice and I went with straight formaggio. Both were excellent, excellent. We decided that the sauce and cheese just have more flavor. We knew that the sauce is organic and that Will Gioia chooses several kinds of cheese to combine into that perfect mix of stretchy, chewy wonderful goo. Gioia wins again. Big surprise. Not.

Ode to Sabrett's

The "street dog" rivals the pizza slice as the ideal, on-the-go snack or meal. One dog is a snack, two is a meal, and three...well, you better not have any plans for the next hour or so.

In New York, a hot dog from a street vendor is a quick, inexpensive, tasty and nutritious dining option. (OK, it's probably not nutritious). But many people do eat them. I used to get mine on Park Avenue and 48th Street, on the west side of the avenue. Operating a hot dog wagon is a busy business. Out here on the West Coast, I assume that it would be a lonely business. If anyone knows of any wagons out here, please let me know.

Kevin Morrow, long lost Brother (Phi Alpha) and friend of David Gewant's, turned me on to the following site, bringing the Lower East Side to your own home. http://www.foodsofnewyork.com/index.html

Get your Sabrett's right here! A great idea for when you have friends over to watch the Yankees play in the World Series (oh, like they won't be in it?) Nothing like a nice knish to balance out the meal. Cold beer as the required beverage.

Sabrett's, for those of you who don't know, are the quintessential New York street hot dog. They are pretty thin, pretty long, and nice and meaty. There's a bit of a snap when you bite in, and they are moderately seasoned. They are boiled, cooking for hours in a curious seasoned broth (OK, let's not go there). I prefer them with mustard, ketchup and relish, but that's a very personal thing.

I don't know from knishes. I've had about five or ten in my life. The first bite is tasty, but it gets heavy quickly. But what does a WASP know about knishes? I assume the ones offered on the above website are to knishes what Sabrett's are to hot dogs: the real deal.

Diners - The Ten Commandments

Many thanks to my friend David Gewant who reminded me of the importance of diners as a staple of American eating. He and I used to hang out in New York before he succombed to the call of the Pacific Northwest. Diners were often part of Sunday hangover/previous night recap/peruse the Sunday Times routine.

Diners, in their purest forms, are places where you can go and know pretty much what will be on the menu, expect that you will get prompt if not effusive service and that the food will rank at a universally acceptable (or higher) quality. I mention diners in this blog because I feel that diners really thrive on the East Coast/Midwest. That's not to say I have not eaten at some great diners out west, but you need to really get away from metropolitan areas, wheras back east, you can as easily find a real diner as a high-end steakhouse in any given city.

We don't go to diners searching for trendy food items, low-fat anything or fusion of any kind. We want simplicity, value and quality. Therefore, I humbly offer up my own Ten Commandments of Diners.

1 . Thou shalt be open twenty four hours a day, or at least from 6 am to midnight
2. Thou shalt serve french fries with almost all dishes, without an additional charge
3. Thou shalt seat your customers promptly and bring menus right away. Food shall follow within about ten minutes
4. Thou shalt offer a "bottomless" cup of coffee and not make me have to keep asking for refills.
5. Thou shalt employ only veteran waitresses who will call me "Hon," the exception being fresh-faced, young, cute, friendly waitresses who also call me "Hon."
6. Thou shalt not offer upon thy menu any of the following food items: truffle, confit, arugula, brie, pesto, persimmon, tofu, watercress or raw fish or seafood
7. Thou shalt, without exception, offer the following selections on thy menu: tuna melt, Greek Salad, French onion soup, Reuben, patty melt, hot dogs, Monte Cristo sandwich, western omelette, brown gravy with mashed potatoes
8. Thou shalt offer a wide range of steaks, chops and seafood dishes, though they will be very rarely ordered
9. Thou shalt serve breakfast at all hours of the day and night.
10. Thou shalt laminate thy menus.

Some people are pretty hung up on diners maintaining a certain type of architecture. I 'm not. It's the food and how it's served. However, there is a great website for those who search for the traditional trappings.

http://www.dinercity.com

This is pretty comprehensive and well done. Also, please check out the section where the author reviews several of the top delis in New York. A good reference.

There's a place in San Francisco called Fog City Diner. It's a wonderful restaurant, and I think it's even open late. From the outside, it looks like a diner. It's not. Here are five reasons why:
1 - The wine list is way too good
2 - Blue cheese is offered with at least two different pedigrees
3 - Mu Shu ????
4 - Raw oysters??
5 - The capper....TRUFFLE FRIES!!

Now don't get me wrong. I love to eat at this place (when I can afford it). However, make no mistake. It is not a diner. When we want exotic ingredients, unusual combinations and great wines by the glass, we go to cafes, grills or other restaurants, not to diners.

When we need some comfort food, need to feel like everything is going to be OK, need to be in a place where we will get no surprises, we go to diners. Thank goodness they exist.

Some interesting links

These are some links that I have been holding on to for just an occasion such as this.

Review of Miller's Deli from the Chronicle

Supposedly this is a good New York Deli in San Francisco. I have not yet been, but based on the review, I would like to try the bagels. Interesting that they are indeed shipped from New York rather than trying to create them on "foreign soil." I will hope to add more f my own experiences after actually visiting the place myself.

http://www.sliceny.com/

This is unofficially the best pizza website there is, with an obviously dedicated readership and several years of traffic built up. More than I could ever even read, but what I like is the references to pizzarias outside NYC, especially our new favorite Gioia in Berkeley.

Article from Wired Magazine

This is a very interesting article about the lengths that people will go to get some of their favorite "tastes from home" and the companies that are popping up to help them do just that (and to turn a profit of course)

Two Words on Mail Order and a Book Recommendation

In this fast paced, crazy, wacky, get-it-done-yesterday world, there is really never anything we can't get. Fast. But for a price. I previously spoke of getting the ultimate long-distance pizza delivery, a special Fedex pack from Cornwall, New York containing a fresh, authentic Prima Pizza. Today, another New York favorite plus a thought about lobster-- Maine lobster, that is.

My brother is a way more thoughtful gift giver than I am. Here's proof. The first Christmas we lived in California after having moved from New York, my genius brother sent us a care package from Zabar's. My wife used to live on the Upper West Side (83rd and Columbus) and we used to walk over to Zabar's and H&H Bagels, as well as Citarella and Fairway Market. We would buy the freshest ingredients every Saturday late afternoon for the best Sunday brunch possible (we're talking bagels and lox with tomato and onion) and eat it every week, while reading the paper. (I don't have to explain what "the Paper" means, just like there's no question when I say "The City." It's not SF.) Truly as good as it gets. (Here's a question to discuss among yourselves, which makes for a better shopping experience: Going up and down upper Broadway from Zabar's at the north down to Fairway, or.....Berkeley Bowl? Discuss.)

The care package from Zabar's included bagels, (of course), smoked salmon, pastrami and some shmear. Everything was really great and it was shipped in an insulated bag with some frozen stuff to keep it all cold. Bagels fresh as you can get, crunchy and chewy. Smoked salmon sweet and salty and like buttah. I can highly recommend Zabars for any of your core basic East Coast Homesick essentials. Truly a great sample of everything that Zabar's does so well and that we long for from afar. And with the exception of some of their fancy-shmancy corporate gift baskets, you can get decent value (unless a friend happens to be visting NY some time in the future....)

Zabar's, 2245 Broadway at 80th Street, NY, www.zabars.com , 800-697-6301

Speaking of mail order (but not of New York for a change), have you ever craved a nice, sweet live Maine lobster like we used to always have for the Fourth of July? As we got older, we started having lobster any time we wanted to feel like celebrating, though it is officially a July Fourth tradition in the Parker House.

When we go to Maine every year after Labor Day, we always find occasion to patronize Bayley's Lobster Pound in Scarborough, Maine (say "Scarbrowe"). We always, always get our lobsters there ever since my mom's friend Claudie told us that what the locals do. So I think they are the real deal as far as Maine lobsters go. Small enough to be folksy, but large enough to have their own website. Go to www.bayleys.com . It's all there. I'm kind of sad that they are out here on the net but if it helps spread the word that thay are the rulers of all crustaceans, then so be it. We'll pretend we don't know when we head back there at the end of this summer. They ship live lobsters anywhere in the country with three days notice.
Bayley's Lobster Pound, Jones Creek Drive and Avenue 6, Scarborough, ME 800-WE-BOIL-M


OK, here's the book reco. The New York Cook Book by Molly O'Neill. If you cook at all and read the New York Times for any period of time, you know who she is. East Coast Homesick is a big fan of Molly's. This book covers the entire city and gives such color to the different pockets of people who dot this great, vast place. My parents (who are also extremely good gift givers), gave this book to my wife in the year following our move West. Not only are the recipes well chosen but Molly's intros and sidebars within the book are almost like touring the city from the comfort of your own home. (God, I sound like the flack I used to be. ) Bottom line is: this is a great book and it will make you hungry just flipping the pages. Buy it soon and give it to friends.

Check this link: New York Cookbook